indexpage

Restoration Notes

The restoration of this boat began in January 2008. The first thing I did was to document the entire boat as it was delivered. Then I dismantled it piece by piece taking a photograph and notes on the location, condition and what would need to be replaced (wood), rechromed (hardware) and retained. The boat includes the original U.S. Molded Shapes, Inc. hull and pieces added by workmen at Slick Craft Boat Company, like the deck frames, transom and stringers.

Next, I dismantled every piece of hardware that need to be rechromed, which included everything. That way all of the pieces will look great once they are refastened to the boat. Once the gauge and horn mechanicals were removed for safe keeping, screws removed from the multiple part pieces (bow light, stern light, etc.) the hardware, totaling 52 pieces, were sent to Paw Paw Plating, Inc. in Paw Paw, Michigan. It is wise to estimate the value of replacement for these vintage parts and insure the package of parts before sending anywhere.

Then I started on the dismantling and replacement of rotten parts from the dashboard gauge box, upholstered gauge panel, seat backs and bottoms, and upholstered side panels. The side panels had become rotten and brittle from years of temperature and humidity swings and moisture through the end grain of the plywood. I carefully removed the original vinyl so that the upholster, Land and Sea Upholstery of Holland, Michigan, could replicate the upholstery. The side panels were replaced with new 1/4" inch plywood and sealed with Smith's CPES. The upholsterer will replicate the look of the originals, including the shiny middle portion, that was originally made from an upholstery stock with a tin foil like covering that did not survive. A professional upholsterer that worked on many of the 1950s SlickCrafts told me that this material was not used for very long due to its fragile nature.

Next, I sanded the original seat backs and bottoms down to original plywood and found them sound enough to be reused. I was also able to save the original hull numbers that had been stamped into these pieces. The front seat frame was another story, however. The original 1/4" plywood seat backs had suffered the same fate as the side panels and had to be replaced. The seat frame tops and supports were originally made from several pieces of marine plywood glued together to form thick, strong pieces of 1.5" plywood. Unfortunately, the pieces got wet through the end grain and rotted. Due to their important role in solely supporting the front seat passengers, I chose to replace everything except the original mahogany stock seat bottom frame. That was sanded, sealed, and painted bilge red like the other seat pieces. The seat frame is now practically new and refastened with silicon bronze from Clark Craft Fasteners and 3M 5200 adhesive to ensure that moisture does not invade the new plywood and ruin all of my hard work.

I also took the opportunity to replaced the gauge panel box and upholstered face piece. The original white upholstery that the chromed gauge face attached to had also retained moisture over the last 50 years and needed to be replaced with a new piece of 1/4" plywood. I also rebuilt the gauge panel box that, when completed, will set on the deck/dashboard area of the boat. It shades the gauges and gives the dashboard area an "automobile like effect". The new box was rebuilt using marine grade 3/4" plywood and Gorilla Glue. I did not use fasteners. Gorilla Glue is an awesome product! This box was also treated with Smith's CPES before being reupholstered to match the rest of the dashboard.

Once I completed the sanding of the hull and removed all fastener putty I replaced the white oak outer keel. I removed the original deck frames, sanded them with 80 grit sandpaper to remove dirt, varnish and bedding compound before sealing and refastening with 3M 5200 adhesive and new silicon bronze fasteners.

The original self-bailing engine well had to be replaced due to age and water and gas damage over the years. I built a new one using the original pieces as patterns. Once the well was sealed with Smiths CPES, I fastened it with silicon bronze fasteners and 3M 5200 adhesive. It was then refastened to to the rear deck frames and hull sides with 3M 5200 adhesive and silicon bronze fasteners.

The deck was replaced due to age and water damage with new Sapele plywood and refastened with 3M 5200 adhesive and new silicon bronze fasteners. I made bungs to cover the countersunk fasteners and sanded smooth with 80 grit sandpaper on a flexible longboard. The deck and hull sides were stained with red mahagony stain available from Sandusky Paints and sealed with Interlux brand InterPrime sealer and received 15 coats of Epiphanes High Gloss varnish. I taped and painted the deck lines, but would use a paint wheel next time due to the laborious task of taping and cutting to form the curves on the foredeck.

The boat was delivered to the customer on February 8, 2009 and appeared in the 2009 Detroit Boat Show at Cobo Hall, Detroit, Michigan, later that week, under the auspices of the Michigan Chapter of the Antique and Classic Boat Society (ACBS). On June 26, at the Algonac Boat Show, it earned a 1st place trophy in the Best Wood Outboard division.